Pattern grading device



Nov. 10, 1964 J. 5. POTTER PATTERN GRADING DEVICE Filed March '7, 1962 2Sheets-Sheet 1 l 7 f INVENTOR JOEL SANFORD POTTER AT TORNEVS.

Nov. 10, 1964 I J. 5. POTTER 3,156,046

. PATTERN GRADING DEVICE Filed March 7, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 2.

22 22 INVENTOR F 3 JOEL SANFORD POTTER BY 7 HM,

ATTQBNEYS.

United States Patent 3,156,046 PATTERN GRADING DEVICE Joel SanfordPotter, Timbertop Farm, West Nyack, NY. Filed Mar. 7, H52, Ser. No.178,131 5 Qlaims. (Cl. 33-12) This invention relates in general to apattern making device, and more specifically to a pattern making devicefor accurately grading a pattern of a given predetermined size intosimilar patterns of any other desired size.

In the designing of clothes, it is customary for a designer to design agiven dress in a standard size, e.g. a size when working in womensclothing. However, any other suitable size may be picked as standard.'After the given garment has been designed and its pattern determined inthe preselected size, it then becomes necessary to proportion theselected pattern size, up or down in order to make the given garment inother sizes. Generally the upgrading or downgrading of sizes from agiven preselected size bears a predetermined relationship to theselected pattern size md this is readily determinable in inches orfraction of inches. Accordingly a skilled pattern maker, who works froma preselected design pattern will increase or decrease the proportionsof the other patterns based on the known relationship in the upgradingor downgrading, respectively, from a given preselected pattern.Generally this had been accomplished by hand, and for this reasonresulted in tedious and time consuming operation. Also such handupgrading and downgrading from a preselected pattern required the handof highly skilled pattern maker.

While attempts have been made to mechanize this art, the known mechanismare not satisfactory. Some of the known devices utilized a screw driveto increase the size of preselected pattern a given number of inches orfraction thereof to change the size of the selected pattern.

However, these devices were relatively slow and difficult to operate.Also, the operation of the known devices required on the part of theoperator a complete knowledge of the degree of increased or decreasedproportions of each graded size over that of the selected pattern.

Therefore, an object of this invention is to overcome the foregoingdisadvantages by providing an improved pattern grading device in whichthe grading of a given pattern is readily attained without the necessityof making or taking any measurements.

Another object is to provide a pattern grading device which can beelfectively used to upgrade or downgrade a given pattern with equalfacility by either a skilled or unskilled pattern maker.

Still another object is to provide a pattern grading machine that isreadily simple in operation, inexpensive to manufacture, and positive inoperation.

The above objects and other features and advantages of this inventionare attained by a pattern making device which is capable of upgrading ordowngrading a pattern of preselected size without the necessity ofmeasuring in inches any changes of dimensions between the selectedpattern and any of the varying patterns to be graded therefrom. Inaccordance with this invention this is attained by a mechanism forcarrying the preselected pattern in a particular manner over a sheet ofmaterial from which the graded pattern is to be formed. The mechanismincludes a base plate movable in a horizontal direction relative to astop bar which is fixed with respect to the sheet of material from whichthe graded pattern is to be cut, and a slide means carried by the baseplate for moving the preselected pattern relative thereto in a generallyvertical direction over the material to be graded. A pair of indicatingmeans calibrated to read in'sizes e.g. 8 to 20, are operativelyassociated with the stop bar and slide means, respectively, formeasuring the relative pro- "Ice portionate amount of vertical movementand horizontal movement of the preselected pattern over the materialfrom which the graded siZe is to be formed.

The arrangement is such that by setting the indicators to the size ofthe preselected pattern, i.e. 10, a point on the pattern to be graded,say a size 14, corresponding to a selected point on the preselectedpattern can be readily located simply by moving the pattern verticallyand/or horizontally until the respective indicators responsive to suchmovement read the size of the pattern to be graded, i.e. 14. When thisoccurs the selected point of the preselected pattern overlies acorresponding point on the graded pattern properly proportioned for thegraded pattern, and thus this point can be marked thereon. Bysuccessively locating a plurality of such points in a like manner on thegraded pattern, the latter can be readily ascertained from thepreselected pattern without resorting to physical measurements.

A feature of this invention resides in the provision of flexible cablesfor rendering each of the indicators operatively responsive to therespective movement of the base plate relative to the fixed stop bar andthe base plate relative to its slide means.

The various features of novelty which characterize this invention arepointed out with particularity in the claims annexed to and forming apart of this specification. For a better understanding of the invention,its operating advantages and specific objects attained by its use,reference should be had to the accompanying drawings and descriptivematter in which is illustrated and described a preferred embodiment ofthe invention.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of the pattern grading device of this invention.

FIG. 2 is a partial side elevation View of FIG. 1.

FIG. 3 is a sectional plan view taken along lines 3-3 of FIG. 2.

Referring to the drawings, there is illustrated the pattern gradingdevice 10 of this invention. It comprises a housing 11 having a baseplate 12 and a cover plate 13 spaced therefrom. The base plate 12 isrectangular in form and it is defined by an upper and lower horizontaledge portion 12A, 12B and opposed vertical edge portions 12C. As shownin FIG. 3, the base plate 12 is provided with a horizontally disposedelongated slot 14 adjacent each of the corners. A ball 15 protrudes fromeach of the slots 14, each ball 15 being freely rotatable within itsrespective slots. Each ball 15 is provided with limited movementrelative to the base plate 12 due to a suitable retaining ring 16 andspring holder 17 anchored to the plate 12 by a fastener 18. Thearrangement of the balls 15 relative to the'base plate 12 thus permitsmovement of the plate 12 relative to a supporting surface or table 1).

Mounted on the base plate 12 adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion12B is a stop bar 28. Each end portion of the stop bar 20 is providedwith a cut back or' notched out portion to define a shoulder 20A. Thestop bar 26 is supported on the plate 12 to provide for relativehorizontal movement therebetween. Fixed to the base plate 12 on eitherside of the stop bar 2! are stop blocks 21 positioned to limit themovement of the base plate 12 relative the stop plate 26. Connected tothe leading edge of stop bar 21 are a pair of brackets 22 by which thestop bar 20 may be fixed to the edge of a supporting surface or table19. Thus with the stop bar 2!) fixed to the table 19, it will beapparent that the base plate 12 is free to move in a horizontalmovement, i.e. in lateral direction relative to the stop bar 20. Guides.23 prevent vertical movement of the base plate 12 relative to the stopbar 26?. Vertical movement of the base plate 12 is'herein defined asmovement in a plane normal to the relative horizontal or lateralmovement between the base plate 12 and the stop bar 20.

Connected along the opposed vertical edge portions 120 of the base plate12 are slide guides 24 and 25. A bar member 26 having its end portions26A spaced from guides 24 and 25 define therebetween a space toaccommodate slides 27 and 23. Thus, slides 27 and 28 are supported onthe base plate 12 for relative vertical movement with respect to thebase plate 12.

Forming a tie connection between the slides 27 and 28 is an angle member29. Thus angle member 29 provides concomitant movement of the slides 27,28, and one leg 29A of the angle 29 is vertically disposed to serve in ahandle to facilitate movement of the slides 27, 23.

Connected to the horizontal leg 29B of the tie-angle 29 and extendingoutwardly therefrom are a pair of brackets 31') for holding thepreselected pattern 31 which is to be graded. With the structuredescribed it will be apparent that the preselected pattern 31 carried bythe slides 27 and 28 can move vertically relative to plate 12, and theplate 12 due to its ball mountings can move horizontally relative to thesupporting table 19 to which the stop bar is fixed. With the material 32of the graded pattern placed on the table 19 beneath pattern 31, it willbe noted that slides 27 and 28 carry the preselected patern 31 and canbe moved in both a horizontal and vertical movement relative to thematerial from which the pattern is to be formed.

In accordance with this invention means are provided for measuring thehorizontal movement of the plate 12 relative to the supporting surface19, and hence the slides 27, 28 and pattern 31 carried thereby. Themeans for measuring the horizontal movement of the plate 12 and slides27, 28 carried thereby include a grooved Wheel 33 fixed to a shaft 34rotatably journaled to the base plate 12. Spaced on either side of thegrooved wheel 33 are idler wheels or pulleys 35, 36. Accordingly, aflexible cable 37 is wound about the grooved wheel 33 and each of theidler wheels 35, 36. To avoid slippage, a portion of the cabie 37 isanchored to the wheel 33. A point on the cable 37 is also fixed to thestop bar 20 by a suitable connector 33. Thus, the base plate 12 whenmoved horizontally relative to the fixed stop bar 20 affects movement ofthe cable 37. The cable being wound about wheel 33, thus results inrotation of the shaft 34. Mounted on the shaft 34 which extends throughthe cover plate 13 is a pointer 39' which cooperates with a calibratedscale 40 for indicating the amount of relative horizontal movement ofthe base 12 and slider carried thereby. The indicia of the scale 40 inaccordance with this invention is calibrated in sizes e.g. 8, 9, 1t),11, 12, etc.

To measure the movement of the angle 24 and connected slides 27, 2Svertically relative to the base plate 12 is a second indicator 41. Thisindicator 41 also includes a wheel or pulley 42 fixed to a shaft 43rotatably journaled to base plate 12. Shaft 43 extends upwardly throughcover plate 13 and has fixed thereto a pointer 44 which cooperates withscale 45.

To insure accurate concomitant movement between the slides 27, 28 and toprevent binding the same, a cable 46 is looped over the idler pulleys47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 and the indicator pulley 42. Accordingly, a pairof idler pulleys 47, 51 and 48, are arranged adjacent to the uppercorners of the plate 12, and a single idler pulley 49 and 52respectively are disposed in each of the lower corners. As shown, thepulleys are mounted on corner plates fixed to the plate 12.Specifically, pulleys 47 and 51 are mounted on corner plate 53, pulleys48 and 56 are mounted on corner plate 54, pulley 49 is mounted on cornerplate 55, and pulley 52 is mounted on corner plate 56. Starting withwheel or pulley 42, the cable 45 extends around pulley 47, pulley 48,pulley 49, pulley 50, pulley 51, pulley 52, and then around wheel 42.Between pulleys 51 and 52 a portion of the cable 46 is fixed to slide 28by a suitable connector 28A. A portion of the cable 46 between pulle s49 and 59, is connected to the other slide 27 by a similar connector27A. With the cable 46 thus connected to both slides 27, 28, both slidesmust rows the same vertical distance relative to the base plate 12. Theparticular pulley arrangement described further prohibits angling of theslides 27, 23 and resulting binding which would otherwise inhibitmovement thereof. Thus, when the slides 27, 28 are moved verticallyrelative to the base plate 12, the displacement of the cable 46 willeffect rotation of the shaft 43 and pointer 44 connected thereto.

To further guide slide 27 and to build some friction into the system ifdesired, a bolt 57 is pressed against the side of the slide 27 by acompression spring 58 disposed in a housing 59 fixed to the plate 12.However, the components 57, 58 and 59 are purely optional and may bedeleted if desired.

In operation, the preselected pattern 31 is secured to pattern holder30, and the stop bar 20 is fixed to the table 19 to position the device10 relative to a sheet of material 32 from which the graded pattern isto be formed. The pointers 39, 44 of each indicator are then set to readthe size of the preselected pattern 32, e.g. 10. Therefore, if it isdesired to upgrade the preselected size 10 pattern to, say, pattern size14, the sheet 32 from which a size 14 pattern is to be formed is layedunder the sample pattern 31 and fixed to the table 19. A mark is made atone of the neutral points on the sample pattern, e.g. as at neutralpoint A. Thus, to find the corresponding point A an upgraded or a pointA" on a downgrade pattern 31' and 31" respectively, horizontal movementof the plate 12 relative to the stop bar 20 is effected accordinglyuntil the indicator points 39 read the graded size of the pattern beingformed, i.e. 14. When their size is read, the point A of the selectedpattern overlies corresponding point A on the upgraded pattern 31'. Thispoint can then be marked on the sheet of material. A second point B onthe selected pattern is then taken. The slides are thus moved verticallyand horizontally, until the vertical pointer 44 and horizontal 39,respectively, read 14. When this reading is bad, the second point of thegraded pattern is located and can be marked as at B. By thus plotting asuccessive number of such points, the outline of the graded pattern canbe ascertained. Downgrading of the pattern is readily converselyaccomplished in a similar manner.

With the arrangement described it will be apparent that the upgradingand downgrading can be attained without the necessity of taking anyphysical measurements. Thus the device It? can be handled with equalfacility by either a skilled or unskilled pattern maker. The device isrelatively simple and positive in operation, and the use of cables 37,46 greatly simplifies the structure and resulting cost of manufactureand sale.

While the instant invention has been disclosed with reference to aparticular method and a particular embodiment for practicing the same,it is to be appreciated that the invention is not to be taken as limitedto all of the details thereof as modifications and variations thereofmay be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:

1. A pattern grading device comprising a rectangular base plate definedby upper and lower horizontal edge portions and opposed vertical edgeportions, a horizontal stop bar carried on said plate adjacent the lowerhorizontal edge portion of said base, said stop bar being mounted onsaid base plate to permit relative horizontal movement therebetween,brackets connected to said stop bar adaptable for fixedly securing saidstop bar to a supporting surface, opposed slide guides connectedadjacent each vertical edge portion of said base plate, a slide barslidably mounted relative to said base plate disposed in each of saidslide guides, a tie means interconnecting the opposed slide bars toprovide for concomitant movement of said slide bars relative said baseplate, means for holding a master pattern to said tie means, meansconnected to said base plate for movably supporting said base plate overa supporting surface whereby grading of the master pattern is attainedby proportionate movement of the pattern in a horizontal and verticaldirection effected by horizontal movement of the base relative to stopbar and vertical movement of the slide base relative said base platerelative to a fixed sheet or" material, and means for determining theproportionate vertical and horizontal movement of said master patternfor the grading of a given size, said latter means including a firstindicator for indicating the proportional horizontal movement of saidpattern, and a second indicator for indicating the predeterminedproportional vertical movement of said master pattern grading, each ofsaid indicators being calibrated to read in sizes.

2. A pattern grading device comprising a housing including a rectangularbase plate defined by upper and lower horizontal edge portions andopposed vertical edge portions, a horizontal stop bar carried on saidplate adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion of said base, said stopbar being mounted on said base plate to permit relative horizontalmovement therebetween, a stop mounted on side base plate on either sideof said stop bar to limit the relative movement between said plate andstop bar, a bracket connected to said stop bar adaptable for fixedlysecuring said stop bar to a supporting surface, opposed slide guidesconnected adjacent each vertical edge portion of said base plate, aslide bar slidably mounted in each of said slide guides for relativevertical movement with respect to said base plate, a tie meansinterconnecting the opposed slide bars to provide for concomitantmovement of said slide bars relative said base plate, means for holdinga master pattern connected to and projected from said slide means, meansconnected to said base plate for movably supporting said base plate overa supporting surface, said means including protruding freely rotatableballs for moving the base plate over a surface whereby grading of themaster pattern is attained by proportionate vertical and horizontalmovement of the master pattern relative to a fixed sheet by horizontalmovement of the base plate relative to stop bar and vertical movement ofthe slide base relative said base plate, and means for determining theproportionate vertical and horizontal movement of said master patternover said fixed sheet of material, said latter means including a firstindicator for indicating a predetermined proportional horizontalmovement of said pattern and a second indicator for indicating thepredetermined proportional vertical movement of said master pattern forthe grading of a given size, each of said indicators being calibrated toread in sizes.

3. A pattern grading device comprising a housing including a rectangularbase plate defined by upper and lower horizontal edge portions andopposed vertical edge portions, a horizontal stop bar carried on saidplate adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion of said base, said stopbar being mounted on said base plate to permit relative horizontalmovement therebetween, a stop mounted on said base plate on either sideof said stop bar to limit the relative movement between said plate andstop bar, brackets connected to said stop bar adaptable for fixedlysecuring said stop bar to a supporting surface, opposed slide guidesconnected adjacent each vertical edge portion of said base plate, aslide bar slidably mounted relative to said base plate disposed in eachof said slide guides, a tie-angle interconnecting the opposed slide barsto provide for concomitant movement of said slide bars relative saidbase plate, brackets for holding a master pattern connected to andprojected outwardly from said tie-angle, means connected to said baseplate for movably supporting said base plate over a supporting surface,said means including horizontally disposed slots formed in the cornerportions of said base plate, a protruding freely rotatable ball retainedin each of said slots for moving the base plate over a surface wherebygrading of the master pattern is attained by proportionate movement ofthe pattern effected by horizontal movement of the base relative to stopbar and vertical movement of the slide bars rela tive said base plateover a fixed sheet of material, and means for determining theproportionate vertical and horizontal movement of said master patternfor grading to given size from said master pattern, said latter meansincluding a first indicator for indicating the proportional horizontalmovement of said pattern over the fixed sheet of material and a secondindicator for indicating the pie-determined proportional verticalmovement of said master pattern over the fixed sheet of material forgrading the given size, and each of said indicators being calibrated toread in sizes.

4. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein said first indicatormeans includes a dial graduated in sizes, a pointer movable relativesaid dial, a pair of idler pulleys mounted on said base, and a flexiblecable treaded over said pulleys, said cable being fixed at one point tothe stop bar for connecting said pointer with said stop bar to rendersaid pointer responsive to the relative horizontal movement between saidbase plate and fixed stop bar.

5. The invention as defined in claim 4 wherein said second indicatormeans includes a second dial graduated in sizes, a pointer movablerelative to said second dial, and means rendering said pointerresponsive to the vertical movement of said slide bars relative to saidbase plate, said latter means including a series of pulleys, rotatablyjournaled to the base plate adjacent the corners thereof, and a flexiblecable loop over said pulleys and about said pointer, means for fixing apoint on the cable loop to each of said slide bars whereby said pointeris rendered responsive to the concomitant vertical movement of saidslide bars relative to said base plate.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS2,589,105 Maiocchi Mar. 11, 1952 2,711,588 Ingram June 28, 19552,972,188 Kaufman Feb. 21, 1961 3,083,465 Totten Apr. 2, 1963

1. A PATTERN GRADING DEVICE COMPRISING A RECTANGULAR BASE PLATE DEFINEDBY UPPER AND LOWER HORIZONTAL EDGE PORTIONS AND OPPOSED VERTICAL EDGEPORTIONS, A HORIZONTAL STOP BAR CARRIED ON SAID PLATE ADJACENT THE LOWERHORIZONTAL EDGE PORTION OF SAID BASE, SAID STOP BAR BEING MOUNTED ONSAID BASE PLATE TO PERMIT RELATIVE HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT THEREBETWEEN,BRACKETS CONNECTED TO SAID STOP BAR ADAPTABLE FOR FIXEDLY SECURING SAIDSTOP BAR TO A SUPPORTING SURFACE, OPPOSED SLIDE GUIDES CONNECTEDADJACENT EACH VERTICAL EDGE PORTION OF SAID BASE PLATE, A SLIDE BARSLIDABLY MOUNTED RELATIVE TO SAID BASE PLATE DISPOSED IN EACH OF SAIDSLIDE GUIDES, A TIE MEANS INTERCONNECTING THE OPPOSED SLIDE BARS TOPROVIDE FOR CONCOMITANT MOVEMENT OF SAID SLIDE BARS RELATIVE SAID BASEPLATE, MEANS FOR HOLDING A MASTER PATTERN TO SAID TIE MEANS, MEANSCONNECTED TO SAID BASE PLATE FOR MOVABLY SUPPORTING SAID BASE PLATE OVERA SUPPORTING SURFACE WHEREBY GRADING OF THE MASTER PATTERN IS ATTAINEDBY PROPORTIONATE MOVEMENT OF THE PATTERN IN A HORIZONTAL AND VERTICALDIRECTION EFFECTED BY HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT OF THE SLIDE BASE RELATIVESAID BASE VERTICAL MOVEMENT OF THE SLIDE BASE RELATIVE SAID BASE PLATERELATIVE TO A FIXED SHEET OF MATERIAL, AND MEANS FOR DETERMINING THEPROPORTIONATE VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT OF SAID MASTER PATTERNFOR THE GRADING OF A GIVEN SIZE, SAID LATTER MEANS INCLUDING A FIRSTINDICATOR FOR INDICATING THE PROPORTIONAL HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT OF SAIDPATTERN, AND A SECOND INDICATOR FOR INDICATING THE PREDETERMINEDPROPORTIONAL VERTICAL MOVEMENT OF SAID MASTER PATTERN GRADING, EACH OFSAID INDICATORS BEING CALIBRATED TO READ IN SIZES.